TOMATO GARDEN TIPS Rule of thumb, if it's blue; it's a link! Welcome to Tomato Garden Tips. Learn how to grow tomatoes form seed to harvest. Bush Big Boy Hybrid Tomato Grown in 2003. It weighed a whopping 22 ounces Here's what you need Planting Trays-six cell six packs are fine, but I still prefer styrofoam self watering systems. Soil free potting mix-I prefer peat base Quality Tomato Seeds A Warm Location Broad spectrum growing lights Lots of Patience I start my seeds indoors about 6-8 weeks before setting them outside. I have tried both plastic six packs and styrofoam self watering systems, with the styrofoam systems working better. First, moisten your potting mix. I like to use a more expensive potting mix with added compost. The seedlings are just so much more healthy. It is much better then the common black cheap junk, found at dept. stores. Pour some mix into a clean pan and moisten until damp. Do not over soak. You just want a damp mix or seeds may rot. Firmly pack the mix into your planting trays. If using plastic six pack type inserts, then six cell-six packs or 36 cell trays are best, tomatoes prefer a good sized cell for their roots. Place 3-6 seeds to a cell, then choose the healthiest seedling after sprouting. Cover lightly with some "dry" mix. Now, using a spray bottle filled with warm water, lightly spray the top of the mix (Be careful, not the scatter the mix or seeds with the pumping pressure). Tomatoes seeds prefer warm temps to germinate. I prefer 80-90 degrees. I place my trays on top of my refrigerator where the heat rises. New seeds will germinate in about 6-10 days. Older seeds will take longer. Seeds 10 years old, should be soaked overnight in water, before using. When sprouts appear, move to a cooler location under lights. Seedlings like temps around 45-50 degrees. Place the trays under shop lights or growing lights. I use, two type of bulbs in my shop lights. I use, 1 Aquarium light and 1 Sunshine Brillo bulb in each light unit. This provides a full spectrum of light for the seedlings. Cheaper plain shop lights (40 watt) can be used, but results are better with the more expensive bulbs. Place the lights 2"-3" from the top of the seedlings, but never allow them to touch the bulbs. This close proximity prevents plants from getting leggy. Move the lights upward as the seedlings grow, always keeping the same 2"-3" distance from the tallest seedling. I place my trays side by side and place two 2-bulb shop light over top the trays. remember, seedlings love light. They should have about 16 hours of light, per day. That's why seedlings grown on windowsills get so leggy. They are looking for light. I used to prefer to water from underneath, but I was over watering, letting water stand in the trays and causing big problems. DO NOT fertilize a seedling until it is 2 weeks old. Fertilize only with a seedling strength fertilizer, such as Kelp or Seaweed. Neptune's Harvest with a higher P or K ratio is good. Water soluble fertilizers will work, but I do not like to use chemicals. I believe chemicals cause cancer and other health problems and there are many facts to sustain this theory. You can use 1/4 teaspoon of a water soluble product per gallon of water. Fertilize only twice, starting with the onset of the seedlings true second leaves and then again 2 weeks later (this applies to kelp and seaweed also). If you get seedlings with a purple tinge to the leaves, his is likely a Potassium (K) or Phosphorous (P) deficiency. Once this occurs, it's hard to correct. I have found that a chemical based water soluble product called "Bloom Plus" helps correct the problem. This is the only product I have found that helps. Use at seedling strength, 1/4 teaspoon to a gallon of water. Apply only once, by misting onto the seedling with a spray bottle. Remember to raise you lights so you don't spray them and possibly break them. If you are using regular six packs and not the styrofoam self watering systems, you will need to transplant seedlings to bigger containers as they grow. Usually, the first transplant is after they develop their second set of real leaves. Plant the transplants upto the first set of real leaves, breaking of those first single oval leaves. They will probably need transplanted again in about 2 weeks. For the second transplant, I usually cut off the lower most limb and plant it up to the next limb. I have also found a product called "Superthrive" or also called "Hormes #4" used once at when watering, around 2 weeks of age helps prevent to problem of P & K deficiency from ever occurring, thus eliminating the need for the chemical product and helps prevent transplant shock. This is a natural vitamin based product and seems to help over vigor after setting plants out, also. Now, all you have to do is wait. Remember the best seedling is only about 8"-10" tall. ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ Check out the links below for some great tomato facts (Be sure to click your browser's back bottom to return to this page) or CLICK HERE to continue with Tomato Tips and Planting Time!. o Click here to read about fertilizer ingredients o Click here to go to Minimal Chemical Gardening o Click here to go to Organic Gardening o Click here to read about lycopene o Click here to go to Tomato Anatomy