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Basically mine is a shelf-type layout, really big double-track oval with a loopy siding (the SW corner), then a branch-line connecting to another one-track oval (in the bedroom).
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Took a lot of "looking-at-it-until-an-idea-pops", lots of creative skill, and "little-by-little" steady work progress. But the initial benchwork (woodwork) only took about two weeks of 6 hour days, and didn't cost more than $25.
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It runs, most the time. Some days I just look at it.
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Some of it is still in construction, probably forever. I do it in spurts.
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Whole thing is inside an apartment in sections, not attached, no holes in the walls, and is removable.
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Skills Needed: good soldering, basic wiring aptitudes, track-laying, lumber skills, creativity and flexability and ingenuity at solving problems, and "train-knowledge".
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Local hardware stores like Fred Meyers, Home Depot, Radio Shack, Michael's Arts and Crafts, and various Hobby stores had most of what I needed.
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If I was to "do-it-over"... I'd make it higher elevation, at just above shoulder-height but below eye-level, about 62 inches for me (not 50 inches), and use step-stools to reach or fix stuff. Or if the sectiions are 4-6 ft long, just take them off to work on them one at a time. The higher heighth makes it easier to not bump into it and easier to duck at places where no drawbridge is practical.
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It would be a smart idea in the future, to standardize some or most of the layout sections incase you move often. Then you'd only need a few custom sections for each new place you move to.
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Oh, to get these photos onto my webtv site: I had to scan them from my other "real" computer, then send them to my webtv address. And this webtv is turning out to be quite a handy device.
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It is proving to be a mistake to use tight curves (9-3/4 and 11 inch radius) where it goes under the cabinets, causes whole train derailment problems with long trains. I managed to remedy this somewhat by making these curves tilt outward and running shorter (30 car) trains.
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...(August 2006) I'm "thinking-up" possibilities of raising the layout UP (on top of the kitchen cabinets instead of underneath them) to a height of about 6 to 12 inches from the ceiling (75 to 85 inches high!), would solve all sorts of "bumbing into" and not needing drawbridges, and just use step-stools when working on it or running trains...
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ALL TRACK: is temporarily tacked down. or held down with weights, then ballested, then GLUED with a mixture of Elmer's Glue (regular) plus about Ten parts water and a bit of dishwashing soap... and allowed to dry 2 days... so if I decide to dismantle it, all I need to do is add Water with a bit of Dishsoap, and the Ballast-Glue becomes soft and Track then comes right off, without ANY damage...
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