Original articles below are copyrighted by the Memory Makers magazine. I thought I'd place them here since they're well-written and VERY important.)THE HISTORY OF...
SCRAPBOOKING
by Maureen Taylor
Did you know that you have something in common with Thomas Jefferson, Mark Twain, and President Rutherford B. Hayes? That's right. Scrapbooks. Perhaps you have your grandmother's or grandfather's albums. They may not resemble the books you create today in look and feel, but you might be surprised at the similarities. Before copy machines, earlier generations cut articles from newspapers and saved labels, greeting cards and illustrations for their books. They called them common-place books, friendship albums, and scrapbooks.
How old is the scrapbooking tradition? Although no one is really sure, scrapbooks probably have their origin in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The word "scrapbook" first appeared in the late eighteenth century. It is derived from the brightly colored paper called scrap that filled the albums of that time. Scrap such as product labels and greeting cards could be collected or even purchased from specialty shops carrying albums and scrap for the scrapbook mania of the late nineteenth century. If you want to see actual copies of these early scrapbooks, many library archives have collections of them. Compare your scrapbooks to their earlier counterparts to learn more about your grandmother's album, or to discover new ways to approach your own albums.
Common-Place Books
Educated men and women pasted quotes and phrases in things they called common-place books. Thomas Jefferson gathered newspaper articles of his presidency for his books in his leather-bound volumes of plain paper. Most of these books included clippings, drawings and even diary entries. By the first half of the nineteenth century, these albums also had beautiful embossed covers, engraved clasps, and locks. Hattie Harlow of Boston, a seamstress, organized her notes, clippings, and illustrations by topic in separate handmade volumes with wallpaper and cardboard covers. One of her common-place books even includes knitting samples with directions.
Even wealthy scrapbook keepers of the late 19th and early 20th centuries often pasted their clippings and memorabilia directly over the text of old books or catalogs, as shown in the albums above from the Colorado Historical Society.
Granger Books
Building on the popularity of common-place books, William Granger introduced in 1769 a printed book with extra blank pages so that the owner could personalize it with autographs, letters, or illustrations relating to the subject of the publication. Early scrapbookers also began adding pages to existing books to mimic the style. There were even manuals that described how to "extra illustrate" a book.
Friendship Albums
Laura L. Sherwin of Fairhaven, Vermont, wrote, "This lock of hair I will place in your little book for the remembrance of your friend," in Hellen Marion Adams' friendship album. In each place that her family lived, Hellen collected hair weavings and messages in a type of autograph album that originated in Germany in the seventeenth century. Young women in the Victorian period often created memory books or visitors albums filled with signatures, scrap, cards, hair, handwriting, poetry, and even photographs of their family and friends.
Scrapbooks
Just as your scrapbooks have a theme, men, women, and children of earlier generations also created albums for a variety of purposes. The peak decade for scrapbooks in the nineteenth century was from 1880, when a popular manual became available, to about 1890. Producers of scrap created a demand for their product by offering sheets of scraps in new styles directed at women and children. Magazines featured numerous articles on the value of scrapbooks as a family activity and educational tool. Housewives kept the labels and trade cards from new consumer products and included them in their albums, while male and female college students documented their years at school.
Mark Twain's self-pasting scrapbook had gummed pages that one would moisten before adhering various scraps. [He] was such an avid scrapbooker that he reserved Sundays for his hobby. He held patents for his invention of self-pasting scrapbooks that could be dampened with water. By 1901, at least 57 different types of Mark Twain albums were available. Albums could also be purchased from the Montgomery Ward catalog, but many individuals created their own albums using different types of cloth for the covers.
Some scrapbooks were collections of brilliantly colored scraps of paper items in the form of advertising cards or greeting cards arranged by subject or type of material. Other scrapbooks revealed the lives of their compilers through the type of items pasted onto the pages and their arrangement. Other scrapbook hobbyists used their albums as a form of artistic expression. One scrapbooker dressed the paper cut-out figures on her pages in actual fabric swatches.
Today, it's a rare scrapbook that doesn't include photographs. Although earlier generations of scrapbookers began using images in their albums in the mid-nineteenth century, it wasn't until the Kodak camera became available in the 1880s that photographs started to appear in most albums along with scrap. Generally, a photograph album is not considered a type of scrapbook because it focuses exclusively on images. As the number of hobbyists declined in the mid-twentieth century, scrapbooks remained unchanged for several decades as a combination of photographs, printed materials, and family memorabilia pasted into paper albums.
As family history experienced a resurgence of interest in the 1970s due to Alex Haley's Roots, scrapbooks once again became a popular hobby using magnetic photo albums with self- adhesive pages and plastic cover sheets. At an international genealogy conference in Salt Lake City in 1980, several individuals exhibited their family scrapbooks. This created a demand for new products, magazines. and preservation information about scrapbooking and thus sparked a multi-million-dollar industry.
Most recently, software allows you to create page layouts and albums on your computer. You can also post your pages on the Internet to share with family and friends. And what is a family Web page, but an electronic version of a scrapbook?
Do you still have family or friends that think creative scrapbooking is just a fad? Show them this article. Then sit down to scrapbook with pride, knowing that you play a part in one of the newest developments of a centuries-old hobby.
GLOSSARY OF SCRAPBOOK TERMS
acid-free:
In chemistry, materials that have a pH of 7.0 or higher.
archival quality:
A non-technical term that suggests a material or product is permanent, durable or chemically stable, and that it can therefore be used safely for preservation purposes.
buffered/alkaline reserve:
Buffering prevents the formation of acids within paper and protects it from exposure to secondary acids from memorabilia, other paper, glues, the atmosphere, and oil from fingertips.
de-acidification:
Treating paper with a solution that neutralizes acids and builds up an alkaline reserve, which helps prevent future re-acidification.
encapsulate:
To enclose or encase objects such as memorabilia in a pocket or envelope.
lightfastness:
A color which is resistant to the action of external agents, such as light, acids, alkalis. Color (ink) which is resistant to change from aging or from exposure to light, heat, or other adverse conditions. Non-fading over long exposure to daylight.
lignin:
An organic substance (sap) which acts as a binder for the cellulose fibers in woods and certain plants. It is undesirable in the production of fine papers as it reacts with light/heat to produce phenol (alcohol) and acids which cause deterioration and embrittlement of paper.
non-permanent mounting:
Using photo frames, photo corners, or pocket sleeves to hold pictures and memorabilia on a page without permanently adhering them.
permanence:
Ability of a material to resist chemical deterioration, but not a quantifiable term. Permanent paper usually refers to a durable alkaline paper that is manufactured according to ANSI/NISO standards.
pH:
The symbol for the degree of acidity or alkalinity of a substance.
-> pH value of 7 is neutral.
-> Less than 7 is acidic.
-> More than 7 is alkaline.
photographic activity test:
A series of tests designed to identify reactivity of photographic images to various elements.
pigment ink:
Water-insoluble colorants suspended in a liquid-either water, oils, or other carriers. Pigments do not penetrate the surface being colored. Instead they adhere to it, providing better contrast and sharpness.
polyethylene (pe):
A polyolefin made from ethylene gas. Polyethylene, when free of coatings and additives, is chemically stable. (Used in reference to paper protectors.)
polypropylene (pp):
A polyolefin made from propylene gas. Polypropylene, when free of coatings and additives, is chemically stable. (Used in reference to page protectors.)
polyvinyl chloride (pvc):
A plastic that emits gases which interact with photos in a harmful way. (Used in reference to page protectors.)
PRESERVING DOCUMENTS
Old paper documents are susceptible to damage caused by everything from humidity and light to oils on human skin. Protection of fragile papers begins with careful handling.
Attics, garages, and old basements have long been popular places for storing news articles, letters, certificates, and other precious documents. They also can be very harmful environments. Temperatures that soar and plummet, hungry bugs and rodents, rays of sunlight-all wreak havoc on unprotected documents. Dangerous storage places are just the tip of the destructive iceberg. Improper handling, poor paper content and more add to the rapid deterioration of important heirloom documents.
As fragile as paper can be, there are ways to protect it. Once you identify preservation problems, taking action against them can add years to the life of your irreplaceable documents.
Paper's Worst Enemies
Where are your heirloom documents? What could be accelerating their deterioration process? Here are some unfavorable situations to watch out for.
Cyclic conditions that alternate back and forth between hot and humid to cold and dry cause paper's surface to crack and become brittle. Moisture encourages the growth of mold. Non-insulated attics, garages, and basements are vulnerable to cyclic conditions.
Light also damages paper. Chemical changes occur in the paper when it is exposed to light. The chemical changes and oxidative responses can make paper brittle and cause discoloration such as yellowing, fading, and darkening. In addition, light fades inks, watercolors, and dyes.
Infestations by insects and rodents occur because these critters are hungry and looking for something to eat. Ingredients in some glues lure insects and rodents, as do food crumbs. Infestations cause surface abrasions, worm holes, fly specks, and chewed corners.
People are another damaging source for documents. People produce body oils that leave fingerprints and smudges on pictures and documents. Rolling and general mishandling of documents causes creases, bending, crumpling, scratches, scars, tears, and stains.
Copy machines are another destructive force. The copying process exposes documents to damaging heat, fumes, and bright light.
Other destructive materials often appear innocent, yet are damaging. Pencil marks smear, paints crack and flake, watercolors, and inks fade. Inks also can bleed and spread to other abutting documents. Acidic inks are corrosive. A rubber band may contain sulfur. Paper itself can contain ingredients such as acids and lignin that are destructive. Many tape adhesives stain, distort, and contract paper, create sticking problems and lift off the paper's surface. Lamination involves chemical adhesives and vinyl materials that can harm paper. Garages often house fumes from cars, paints, and varnishes that are harmful to your documents.
Preventative Measures
If you have documents in an old basement, attic, or garage, begin a rescue mission right now! Here are some tips to keep in mind when handling precious paper documents.
• Unfold strong, flexible documents, and gently smooth creases with gloved hands, or by placing the document under a polyester sheet for protection.
• Do not force open a rolled document. Even strong documents are subject to creasing, cracking and tearing from the unrolling process. Unrolling a document usually requires some humidity. This process is better left to a conservator.
• Never back fold creases. Back-folding weakens the paper.
• Don't flatten paper that is brittle, stiff, or badly torn. This is another process better left to a conservator.
• Discourage stains and infestation by refraining from drinking, eating, or smoking any time you're handling documents.
• Handle documents sparingly with gloved or clean hands to reduce the risk of tearing, creasing, and damage from body oils.
• Create a master copy for making additional copies by photocopying the original once onto acid-free, lignin-free, archival-safe paper. Since light damage is accumulative, you want to control exposure to light as much as possible. Professionals use low-resolution photocopying techniques. Use the copy for display purposes and leave the original in safe storage.
• Remove paper documents from old magnetic photo album pages by gently lifting a corner of the document to test how securely the document is glued. If it doesn't lift easily, you'll have to dissolve or melt the glue. Un-du adhesive remover can help with this. It does not stain paper or leave residue. It also is ideal for removing documents glued to old paper pages. [Or, use dental floss very gently and slowly.]
Preserve each document by encapsulating it between two sheets of archival safe (PVC-free) plastic: polyester, polyethylene, polypropylene, or mylar.
While there are things you can do to safeguard and preserve important papers, there are also things you should not do. Cleaning and repairing documents can cause more damage and is therefore not recommended. Kathryn Clark, president/owner of Twinrocker Handmade Paper, warns against applying any water or liquid to paper. "Dirt will migrate with the water," she says, "causing tide lines and other discoloration." However, cleaning products such as the document cleaning powder and pad available at twinrocker.com can be used. Since it is a dry absorbing powder, it cleans without the risk of dirt migrating through water. Still, the safest solution for damaged and soiled documents is to leave the repairs and cleaning to a professional conservator.
De-acidification
Robert Strauss, vice president of marketing for Preservation Technologies, believes in removing the harmful factors before encapsulating documents. "Archival Mist (a water-free spray product that neutralizes acids) can help fight relative humidity and temperature damage in addition to removing harmful acids," says Strauss. While Archival Mist does not contain water, it does contain magnesium oxide that acts as an alkaline buffer. It is safe for paper and is easy to use. David Mishkin is the president of Just Black & White, a full-service custom photographic processing lab that specializes in photographic copies and restorations. He agrees with Strauss. "You should always treat all documents by de-acidifying them before encapsulating them," says Mishkin. "Acids will accelerate the yellowing of papers and make them more brittle." The compositions of many papers contain acids and lignin, and so it is important to remove these destructive ingredients. Clark agrees as well. "It is a good idea to de-acidify or neutralize paper if it is acidic," she says. "Magnesium oxide is quite good." Archival supply companies carry paper de-acidifying products that can be applied by spraying, dipping, or brushing techniques.
Scrapbooking Your Documents
If you're ready to start scrapbooking your precious certificates, news clippings, and letters, remember to use only archival-safe page protectors, adhesives, paper, and other scrapbooking materials when preserving them on pages. Keep these tips in mind as well.
• Avoid crushing corners by placing documents inside archival safe plastic sleeves and albums large enough to comfortably accommodate your documents.
• Support fragile documents with heavy, acid-free, lignin-free cardstock.
• Create a special album used only for storing original documents, and put it away in a safe, cool, dark place.
• Create copies of the original documents on acid-free, lignin-free paper, and place them in scrapbooks.
Now that you know the facts, get busy! Remove your documents from harmful environments, eliminate problems, and take action to protect your precious documents for generations. The future is counting on you.
--Patti Swoboda
Opening photo with documents caption - Old paper documents are susceptible to damage caused by everything from humidity and light to oils on human skin. Protection of fragile papers begins with careful handling.
Encapsulation and Storage
The same companies that sell de-acidifiers also carry encapsulation kits and archival-safe storage supplies. University Products, Inc. (archivalsuppliers.com) sells a kit that contains everything you need to encapsulate documents and works of art. Archival paper storage bags, paper storage units and miscellaneous supplies are available from twinrocker.com. Chests, totes, paper keepers, memory boxes, file folders, and many other acid-free storage products are sold at craft stores everywhere.
Where you store an archival-safe container is extremely important. An area that is cool, dark, and has low humidity is ideal. The temperature recommended by experts is 60 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit, with humidity between 30 percent and 55 percent. A bank box can be an excellent place to keep your documents, because these boxes are usually kept in the basement of a bank in a controlled atmosphere.
Keeping it Safe: Dispelling Archival Myths
Answers to five often-misunderstood scrapbook preservation issues
by Amy G. Partain
Whether you are scrapbooking to create a family heirloom, a work of art or both, archival issues will no doubt affect you. As the industry grows, more and more myths about the safety of certain scrapbook products emerge. In this article, two research scientists help us prove or dispel five commonly held beliefs.
1. Journaling printed from a quality inkjet printer will last just as long as handwritten journaling.
False. While computer journaling is often faster and more convenient to use, you may be sacrificing the longevity of your words. According to Daniel Burge, a research scientist at the Image Permanence Institute, the best option for journaling is still a pen containing pigment ink. In tests, pigment inks that are resin coated have proven more stable, and therefore longer lasting, than both dye-based inks and inkjet printer inks. When purchasing pens, make sure they are pigment-ink based and waterproof.
2. If you are unsure of thesafety of an embellishment, matting photos will help protect them from acid migration.
False. "The idea that a mat will save your image is dubious," Burge says. Once a scrapbook page is completed and covered with a page protector, it becomes an enclosed environment that is prone to chemical interactions. Remember that every element placed in a scrapbook is made up of chemicals, and some are more harmful than others. That is why it is so important to use the safest, high quality products available to protect your photos. A photo mat can help keep your photo safe from acid migration if the mats are made of buffered paper. Papers that are buffered have been treated with an alkaline substance, such as calcium carbonate. If you are placing an item on your page that is possibly acidic, such as a ticket or receipt, those acids can migrate to your photos over time. Buffered paper helps neutralize this acid transfer.
3. If you are unsure about the safety of any paper item (greeting cards, receipts, etc.) you should coat it with a de-acidification spray before placing it in your scrapbook.
True. However, don't think that such sprays are a cure-all that will make any item safe for your scrapbook. These products are made to neutralize the acid in papers, and most are not intended to be used on other items, including photographs. "Archival sprays should help most paper products," Burge says. "But I would be concerned about spraying it on inks that are water soluble." Another option for including these items in your scrapbooks is to photocopy them onto acid-free, lignin-free paper.
4. Items labeled acid- and lignin-free are always safe to use with photographs.
False. "Acids and lignin are only two of the possible harmful components in scrapbook products," Burge says. Each item placed in a scrapbook consists of different, and possibly harmful, elements. Labeling products with certain buzz words (such as acid-free) can make products appear safe when they actually may not be. "Acid-free" is a phrase you will see on many products. Beware that while those products probably are acid free, they may contain other harmful ingredients. For example, acid is an issue with papers but is not the most important thing to look for in inks. When looking at ink, it is most important that they be pigment based and waterproof (see statement #1). Lignin is a naturally occurring property in tree pulp, so it only applies to paper products. Think of an old newspaper that is yellowed and brittle. That is what lignin does to paper. So while it is important for scrapbook papers to be lignin-free, don't be fooled if you see a pen or page protector that is labeled "lignin-free." They are not made of paper, so they are naturally lignin-free. To ensure that you are using the safest products for your scrapbooks, learn the terminology and know which terms apply to which products. In addition to pigment inks and acid-free, lignin-free papers, be sure to use only plastics that are made from Mylar D, polyethylene or polypropylene. Steer clear of products containing PVC. You know that new car smell you love? Well, that's the fumes being released by PVC - not something you would want in your scrapbook.
5. Photos that are traditionally processed are longer lasting than digital prints.
True, for the most part. A traditional print is made with the C-41 process on silver halide paper by a photo processor. Currently prints made this way are the most stable, but Burge says digital systems are getting better. While all photos will eventually fade if exposed to bright light for extended periods of time, digital prints are also susceptible to deterioration caused by air pollution, such as ozone in the air, and humidity. Traditionally processed color prints do not have this susceptibility because the gelatin layers used to form the photo protect it from humidity and form a barrier against air pollutants, according to information from the Wilhelm Imaging Research Web site, a facility that tests the stability of color photos (wilhelm-research.com). However, you can get long-lasting prints from a desktop printer, providing several factors are in place, according to Henry Wilhelm, president of Wilhelm Imaging Research. You should use inks and papers recommended by the printer company and store the prints in a dark, temperature-controlled environment. To test photos for longevity, Wilhelm frames prints under glass and exposes them to high-intensity, fluorescent light which equals exposure in a fairly bright room for 12 hours a day. In fact, when it comes to holding up in bright light, prints made from printers such as the Epson Stylus Photo 2200 and the Hewlett-Packard Deskjet 5550 even out-lasted traditionally processed photos, according to Wilhelm's tests. In bright light, the Epson prints had a 90-year life span and HP's prints had a 73-year life span. The longest-lasting traditional photos printed on Fuji's Crystal Archive paper showed evidence of deterioration after 60 years. Wilhelm's studies showed that most desktop photo printers will produce prints that last anywhere from two years to 38 years. Wilhelm is currently in the process of adding test results on a variety of desktop photo printers to his Web site. In addition to testing in bright light conditions, he will provide information on dark storage as well.
Take precautions to keep your albums safe
by Anne Wilbur
Safe scrapbooking may start with photo-safe, archival-quality materials, but it ends with where and how you store completed albums. Because improper conditions can cause more damage than acidic elements, the storage environment is even more important than safe materials. To maximize the longevity of both your scrapbooks and the priceless memories they contain, follow these basic storage guidelines:
choose a cool, dry storage place
Heat and humidity are the two most dangerous elements in the storage environment. High heat makes photos fade faster-twice as fast for every 10 percent increase in temperature. High humidity can cause photos to become sticky, develop stains, or grow fungus. Additionally, wide fluctuations in temperature and humidity can cause photos to crack, wrinkle, or delaminate. Excess heat and humidity can also cause scrapbook papers, inks and other materials to deteriorate.
To avoid exposing your albums to temperature extremes, store your scrapbooks in the coolest location in your home. The relative humidity should stay between 20 percent and 50 percent and the temperature should not exceed 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid hot attics and damp basements. A shelf or closet on the main floor are often the best locations.
Given your investment in photos and supplies, it's worth it to purchase an accurate thermometer and hygrometer to track temperature and humidity in your storage area. Such instruments are available from archival supply companies such as Light Impressions (lightimpressionsdirect.com) and University Products (university products.com). If you find that the relative humidity often exceeds 65 percent, use a dehumidifier. Air conditioning during hot summer months also helps avoid extreme heat and humidity.
store closed albums vertically
Store your scrapbooks vertically with the spine facing out and the sides supported with slight, gentle pressure. Ideally, use slip cases to support albums and protect them from dust. Slip cases are a type of slim box with one open end so you can slide your albums in and out easily. A variety of album styles with matching slip cases are available from Light Impressions. Albums should be closed when not in use because light exposure can cause photos, papers, and inks to fade and yellow.
prevent pressure problems
Elements such as eyelets, brads, wire, sequins, beads, and buttons must be used with care to avoid physical damage during storage. These embellishments can cause indentations or abrasions on scrapbook pages, especially if albums are stored with excessive pressure on their sides.
For pages that contain dimensional elements, try the "shadow box" technique to frame items with significant depth. Using foam adhesive covered with strips of paper, stickers or other flat decorative elements, build up a frame that is deeper than the object itself directly on the page around the embellishment. If a frame does not go well with your page design, use a similar technique to build up the page edges to create extra space next to the facing page.
For post-bound albums and three-ring binders, another technique is to add several spacer strips of cardboard or foam core between each page or page protector. Cut each strip about 1/2 inch wide and punch holes to match the holes in each page. In general, it is a good idea to plan your albums around 3-D elements when possible. Simply do not place photos directly across from 3-D embellishments on a facing page so there is less chance for damage.
keep things clean and critter-free
Air pollution, insects, and rodents can also adversely affect your scrapbooks. Burning wood, cigarette smoke, and various household products can emit potentially dangerous fumes. Dirt, dust, and soot can cause physical damage such as stains, smudges, and scratches. Insects such as cockroaches, silverfish, mites, termites, and moths can chew holes, leave droppings, deposit eggs, or otherwise damage photographs. In addition, common rodents such as mice can shred paper and photographs to use as nesting material.
To prevent these potential problems, don't smoke or store cleaning products, solvents or paints in the vicinity of your albums. Regularly clean the storage area using only a feather duster or clean rag, keeping it free from dust and critter-attracting crumbs. Periodically inspect your albums and take appropriate steps if you find a problem.
protect from flood and fire
While flood and fire are not always avoidable, you can take steps to protect your albums from their devastating effects. Don't store your albums on the floor or near potential water hazards such as overhead pipes. Keep your scrapbooks away from potential fire hazards such as fireplaces or stoves. Make sure your home is adequately equipped with well-maintained smoke detectors and fire extinguishers-they can save your life as well as your scrapbooks.
Also, store your negatives in a location separate from your scrapbooks. In case of fire or flood, storing negatives in another place will reduce the chances that both will be destroyed. Lastly, consider purchasing a fireproof safe or renting a safe-deposit box for particularly valuable photographs and documents.
Although nobody can provide ideal conditions, take the steps to improve your storage environment. With a little effort, you can ensure that where and how you store your scrapbooks will help them last.
Dos and Don'ts of Paper Storage
Place a document or newspaper clipping between two pieces of blank archival-safe paper, which can then be thrown away if acid migration occurs.
Place paper items in archival-safe page protectors to prevent them from rubbing against each other and causing further deterioration. Store papers open and flat, not folded.
Don't hang one-of-a-kind documents or photographs in direct sunlight. They will quickly fade and deteriorate.
Don't use the self-adhesive tapes or glue to repair torn paper or book-binding. In the long run, it will cause more damage to the paper. There are several types of acid-free adhesive tapes that can be used on the backs of photographs to repair them.
Don't laminate family heirlooms and one-of-a-kind documents unless you use a copy of the original. This will not prolong the life of the paper and cannot be undone.
Don't use staples, paper clips or other metal objects with paper, as they will eventually rust.
Don't store documents or photography in attics (usually hot and humid) or in basements (usually damp.) They should be stored in a cool, dry place.
~ excerpted from "New Ideas for Crafting Heritage Albums" by Bev Kirschner Braun
TIMELINE OF SCRAPBOOKING
1598—Early mention of a gathering of "words and approved phrases to make use as it were a common place booke (sic)."
1706—Philosopher John Locke publishes his New Method of Making Common-place Books.
1769—William Granger introduces a book that includes extra blank pages for collecting scrap.
1800s—Young women keep friendship albums of scrap and memorabilia.
1825—A magazine, The Scrapbook, begins publication with articles on the hobby.
1837—Godefroy Engelmann invents chromolithography, a process of lithographic printing in color from a series of plates.
1860s—Mass-production of advertising cards for companies and products.
1867—John Jerrard of London sets up shop as a dealer in photographs and scrap prints of every description for albums and scrapbooks.
1872—Mark Twain markets his self-pasting scrapbook.
1880—E.W. Gurley publishes Scrapbooks and How to Make Them, setting off the Victorian scrapbooking boom.
1888—George Eastman sells cameras for amateurs with the slogan "You push the button, we do the rest."
1900—Major publishers begin marketing themed scrapbooks for children and adults.
1945—Books Across the Sea sponsors a contest for children's scrapbooks with cash prizes.
1980—The Christensens display their scrapbooks at the World Conference on Genealogy in Salt Lake City.
1996—Memory Makers magazine www.memorymakersmagazine.com begins publication. (compiled by Family Tree magazine online)
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