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The Elgin Marbles

In the 19th Century, Lord Elgin removed friezes from the Pathenon that are now in the British Museum. Greece wants them returned, should they be ?

Stay in British Museum

Returned to Parthenon



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In August 1998 I took a Contiki tour of mainland Greece. Having always been a fan of ancient civilizations I had always wanted to visit Greece. I had planned a free day before the tour started in which I took a tour of the Plaka area behind the Parthenon and explored the city.

One of the most interesting things that I was able to see from the balcony of my hotel room was the Temple of the Olympian Zeus. Not far from the Parthenon lies the ruins of anitquity's largest temple the Olympieion. This temple dedicated to Zeus the King of the Gods was started and stopped any times over the years. Similar to Egyptian temples which were never completed. Following a rebellion against Roman rule in 86 B.C. The Roman General Sulla sacked the city and took a large portion of the temple back to Rome to be used in the construction of other temples. The Roman Emperor Hadrian resumed work on the temple but it remained unfinished and abandoned after his death.
Later that night we have our pre tour meeting and then head off to the Plaka for dinner. The Greeks eat late at night, like 9 or 10 O'clock.

The next morning we take off on a bus tour of downtown Athens. We hit the stadium where the First Modern Olympic games started in 1896. We drive by the Presidential Palace and then on to jewel of Athens the Parthenon.

Parthenon

The Acropolis on which the Parthenon sits is the most famous in the world. Burned to the ground by the Persians. The governor of Athens Pericles vowed to rebuild it even greater than it was before. 2 Temples were built, the Parthenon to the goddess Athena with it's large statue of her inside and the Temple to the goddess Athena-Nike. There is also the Erechtheion with it's famous Porch of the Caryatids which rose around the olive tree sacred to Athena. After being rebuilt it has had a long storied and controversial history. After the fall of Greece to the Romans, the buildings were left intact but many of the treasures were inside were looted. During the occupation by the Ottoman Empire, the temples were used as a mosque, stable, harem and brothel. Friezes and trappings were sold to England's Lord Elgin during the Civil War to buy weapons, they now reside in the British Museum and there is an ongoing battle over them. Part of the Parthenon was destroyed when gunpowder being stored there was hit by lightning and exploded. It is also under constant attack by modern day pollutants.
After walking up to the Acropolis through the Propylaia or monumental gates and by the agora and the Odeion (theatre) of Herod Atticus where Greek theatre is still performed. You can see the Parthenon, it is not in it's glory, construction equipment and other machinery to try and put of deterioration brought on by time and man are there. You can look out over the city and see all the monuments that Athens has to offer. They have a small museum which has many objects found during excavations. You can also see the Erechtheion and Temple of Athena Nike. The Parthenon is always mobbed and you have to contend with tour groups but it is a wonderful sight. The construction equipment keeps you grounded in the present and it is harder to visualize it's original splendor. They have a light show at night which is only so so but does give a nice background on the wars with the Persians. If you have the time and the money, Classic Greek Theatre is performed in the Odeion of Herod Atticus. This is where Yanni's concert from the Acropolis was shot not actually at the Parthenon. After the tour of the Parthenon we had an optional tour outside Athens to visit the Temple of Poseidon.

Temle of Poseidon at Sounion

The Temple of Poseidon at Sounion is one of the most legendary monuments in Greece. Built after the Peloponnesian War, the temple stands on a cliff overlooking the Aegean. It was here that the Aegean Sea got its name. It was here that Aegis King of Athens waited for his son Thesus to return from his battle with the Minatour. Though Thesus defeated the Minatour the crew forgot to change the sails. Thinking his son was dead Aegis through himself off the cliff into the sea. The Temple has some famous graffitti left by lord Byron on it. On the facing hill stands the remains of the Sanctuary of Athena Sounios.
Currently the Temple is a nice drive from Athens through small fishing villages. When we were their we were alone so I don't think it is a major tourist stop. The view overlooking the Aegean is incredible.
After our tour of the temple we have a fabulous seafood dinner along the water in Athens before heading out to check out the bars of Athens.


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